Wednesday, January 11, 2012

CATA vs. Egged

 

For the past 7 years, I've lived in the little town of State College, Pennsylvania. One of the primary modes of transportation around the Penn State campus is the CATA bus system. If you're not familiar with it, allow me to paint a picture:

The bus makes two loops around campus: the white and the blue. As long as you're on the right side of the street, it's impossible to get on the wrong bus. The bus drivers are generally very friendly, and often greet you with a "good morning!" People on the bus are usually polite; moving aside for others, or apologizing when necessary. In fact, when it came to the attention of the university that there was pushing at some of the bus stops, they set up cement queue lines to alleviate the problem.

In my experience, the only times when personal space is not recognized is during home football weekends, when the bus is packed with cheering Penn State fans. Usually, the crowd breaks into a Penn State fight song, with strangers jovially high-fiving each other, and swaying arm-and-arm to the tune of "Sweet Caroline."

Really, the only thing you have to worry about on a CATA bus is the occasional belligerent freshman who had one too many Natty Lites.

Now, allow me to paint a slightly different picture: the Israeli Egged buses.

For this small town girl, the Israeli buses were difficult to get used to. The bus drivers have very little patience, and often count your money and hand you a ticket while they are driving (multi-tasking at its finest?). There is little to no recognition of personal space, as people cram onto the bus like sardines. Tonight, I felt like I was sharing a sandwich with the guy next to me.

Another big difference from the CATA bus? Lines (or lack thereof).

At the Central Bus Station in Jerusalem, one must go through security before entering the building. If I'm generalizing (which I am), Israelis don't really have a concept of what lines are. Pushing is almost necessary to get in. This used to really bother me. I decided that I didn't need to push, and I remembered what my Mom always taught me: "You catch more flies with honey than with vinegar!"

Oh, little Lauren, so naive!

After getting into the station, you then have to "wait in line" for your bus. Everyone is standing around by the platform, seeming so nonchalant about their place in line. Then, all of a sudden, the bus doors open and it's a free-for-all. It's every person for him/herself to get a limited seat on the bus. My family witnessed this firsthand on our way home from Tel Aviv, when I got into a verbal smack-down with some woman about our place in line.

You know, just another day riding the bus.

Also, it took me a while to get the hang of all the different bus routes. Usually, there is no harm in taking the wrong bus; it can even be an adventure. But sometimes, it can pose a problem. Take for example, the time earlier this year that I ended up in a modest, ultra-Orthodox neighborhood, wearing my jean shorts and tank top. Passer-bys were shaking their head at me. Men were averting their gaze. Mothers were shielding the eyes of their children. (Ok, I'm exaggerating... but only a little).

Adjusting to a new place can be challenging, especially when you're in a city setting for the first time. I feel small victories every time I use the transportation system here. But, a big part of me still misses the good ol' blue loop in State College... belligerent freshmen and all.

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Family in the Holy Land!

Over Hanukkah, my parents and uncles visited Israel! It was so special to have them here, and to share Israel with them. We had a very jam-packed week, traveling all over the country. 

On the first day, we went to the shuk (market) to taste some Israeli goodies. Then, they went to Yad Vashem (the Holocaust Memorial) while I cooked up a Shabbat feast. We had a lovely Shabbat dinner with some of my friends from school, and then had a Chinese feast at a friend's house the next day.

In the next 7 days, we were able to visit Tel Aviv, Jaffa, Golan Heights, Sea of Galilee, Nazareth, Beit She'an, Akko, Haifa, Caesaria, Rosh HaNikra, Tzfat, Masada, the Dead Sea, Ein Gedi, and the Old City of Jerusalem. 

Whew.

There are a lot of pictures that I'm still waiting to get, but here are a few gems from the trip. Stay tuned for more!


 Welcome to Israel! 
Uncle Bob, Uncle Jeff, Mom, Me, & Dad at the airport.

Dad, Me, & Mom on the promenade looking over the Old City. This beautiful spot is just 10 minutes away from my apartment.


The uncles and me! At the port in Tel-Aviv-Jaffa.

Mom, Me, & Dad at dinner in the North. 
This was moments after an elaborate, over-the-top bat mitzvah celebration, complete with fireworks on the Sea of Galilee, in-restaurant sparklers, and ridiculously loud music. It was like a T.G.I.Fridays birthday on steroids.

Wine-tasting in the Golan Heights :)

The crew at Rosh HaNikra, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea

Mom, Me, and Dad at the top of Masada in the south of Israel.

On top of Masada, overlooking the Dead Sea. Before hiking down the Snake Path.


My mom and I in front of the Western Wall in the Old City.

Friday, January 6, 2012

Hevron

"Teach me and instruct me 
how to behave with all people in the world
so that I may merit being in peace with all,
even with those who disagree with me,
And so that I should merit to always be 
a lover of peace, and a pursuer of peace
As it is written:
'Seek peace and pursue it'"
Rav Nachman of Breslav
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


A few weeks ago, my school took a trip to Hevron. 

Hevron is a holy city in the West Bank, south of Jerusalem. It is notable for being the burial site of the biblical matriarchs and patriarchs (the Me'arat ha-Machpela, Cave of the Patriarchs). While being an incredibly significant religious site for Judaism, it is also a very important site for Christians and Muslims.

But unfortunately, Hevron is notable for another reason. It is one of the most complex and complicated areas of Israel, and perhaps a representation of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict at its worst. 

First, a bit of background about our trip. As I understand it, the goal of our trip was to see Hevron, visit the Cave of the Patriarchs, and to offer us a nuanced perspective and hear from multiple points-of-view about the current reality in parts of the city.

Currently, Hevron is divided into two sections: H1 and H2. The Palestinian Authority has control over H1, and has around 120,000 Palestinians, and no Jews, living there. H2 has around 500 Jews and 30,000 Palestinians, and is controlled by Israel. We visited H2.

We heard from many different people throughout the day, including: 
-A tour guide to give us a historical overview, including the history of the Cave of the Patriarchs 

-A representative of "Breaking the Silence," an organization in which "veteran combatants...have taken it upon themselves to expose the Israeli public to the reality of everyday life in the Occupied Territories."

-A resident of the Jewish community in Hevron

-A former soldier, speaking on behalf of "Stand With Us," an organization "dedicated to informing the public about Israel and to combating the extremism and anti-Semitism that often distorts the issues"
-A Palestinian activist
The first speaker said that we would probably leave Hevron with more questions than we had answers. We would leave with more confusion than we arrived with. We would feel more frustrated at the end of the day than we felt at the start.

She was right. But my biggest reflection of the day? Peace never felt so far away.

There is suffering, grief, and pain on all sides of this conflict. In Hevron, I could not only see it, but I could feel it. There is bitter debate over who has the "rights" to be there, and who should have control over the Cave of the Patriarchs. In this particular area of Hevron, the hostility has escalated to a situation where there are separated streets, wire cages on windows, and armed soldiers on every corner.

Hebron wasn't always this way. The population used to live in relative coexistence up until the last 20 years. Some of my teachers talked about how they used to go to Hevron and shop in the Arab markets there.

How did this happen? How did we get into a situation where people (on both sides) have to fear violence every day? Where people are afraid to leave their houses? Where soldiers need to walk around with machine guns and riot gear?

And on a larger scale, what do you do when you have two groups of people with two conflicting narratives? And when the majority of people on both sides want peace, but a despicable few act on their hatred? What happens when, by ensuring the safety of one group, another group's welfare is affected? And just because you have certain "rights," what is the price you pay for exercising them?

These are not new or unique questions. And they are not easy questions. This is the conflict.



On our way to Hebron, we stopped at a small coffee "shop," called Pinna Chama, that is a place where Israeli soldiers can go to get free coffee and snacks. It's run by volunteers.
Pinna Chama was established after a family lost their loved one in a roadside bomb attack. They wanted to create a warm place that soldiers could visit when they are in the area.




Graffiti outside of Pinna Chama
Photo by Andrea Weise

Outside of the Cave of the Patriarchs.
Photo by Andrea Weise
 Walking around Hebron.

Photo by Andrea Weise
This gentleman spoke on behalf of the Jewish community in Hebron. When asked what his vision is for Hebron, he said, "to live here normally, to live like people live everywhere else, to live without carrying a gun, to live peacefully with my neighbors."


This is a street in H2. Because of the division of the city of Hebron, these Palestinian shops were forced to shut down, essentially creating a ghost town. Also, Palestinian residents on this street are not allowed to leave out of the front doors of their houses.

Photo by Andrea Weise
A sign in H2.

Photo by Andrea Weise
 The sign says "Caution: This was taken by Israel. This is Apartheid." Many of the Palestinian homes/apartments have wire cages around the windows to protect them from violence.

Photo by Andrea Weise

This is a memorial for a Jewish baby that was shot by a Palestinian militant sniper during the Second Intifada.
Photo by Andrea Weise
 A young Jewish boy in Hebron. 

Photo by Andrea Weise
 Palestinian boys hang out outside of a grocery store.


Photo by Andrea Weise
 This gentleman spoke on behalf of the Palestinian community in H2. He hopes that Hebron will be a part of a future Palestinian state, and wishes to live in peace and security.


"Free Israel." 

Soldiers patrolling the streets in H2.

Photo by Andrea Weise
This pictures speaks for itself.



Why did I start out this blog post with a quote about peace, if Hevron gave me a feeling of just the opposite?

Every day, there are examples of co-existence and peace all around Israel. There are many people who have made it their life work to foster co-existence, peaceful relations, and understanding of the Other. While there are areas of extreme conflict, like Hevron, there are also places that are true examples of what peace could look like.

I admire my school for taking this trip. It is not an easy place to go, nor is it an easy place to discuss. At Pardes, we have students, faculty, and staff that stand at all points of the political spectrum, and some individuals have very close and personal connections with Hevron. But what has become clear to me is that we are all "pursuers of peace" in the best way that we know how.

Since the trip, there has been many conversations, both formal and informal, about the experience in Hevron. While people may vehemently disagree with each other, there has been overall a respect and a willingness to listen. Perhaps by listening to each other, by challenging other, we can be, and can encourage others to be, "pursuers of peace."

At least it's a start.

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

May Love and Light Fill Your Home and Heart

Growing up, Hanukkah was a fun time for my family. Each of the eight nights, we would get together and light the menorah. My brother and I would open presents. My mom would make potato latkes. My dad would insist the candles were going to burn the house down. When I think of Hanukkah, I think of my family.

While I missed home, it was incredible to experience a hanukkah in Israel. The country celebrates for eight days, with parties, festivals, delicious foods, menorahs and lights everywhere. Below are a few pictures from some of the celebrations!

And my Hanukkah gift this year? My family was able to visit me in ISRAEL! I was so blessed to spend the last few days of the holiday with them (pictures in a different post).

Picture by Leah Kahn

Sufganiyot! During Hanukkah, everywhere you go in Israel has sufganiyot, or donuts. While delicious, these bad boys explain why none of my pants fit anymore.

Picture by Cheryl Stone

Hanukkah Lights in Jerusalem :)


Lighting candles with my roommate on the first night of Hanukkah! While we lit ours inside, many people in Jerusalem light an outdoor menorah in a glass box. Walking down the narrow streets in Jerusalem was beautiful!

A Hanukkah get-together! Nikki and Jessie make latkes, or potato pancakes.

Yum!

Happy people on the first night!

...even happier?

Like I said, you can never have too many donuts!

Laura, Leah, and I on the first night. Hillel professionals... unite!

A visit from a great friend to light the candles on the second night!